Virtual
War Memorial
Australia

Daughter of Thomas Joseph O'NEILL and Martha Elizabeth nee MULLALY
NOK Step Sister Ursula DALTON
Trained at St. Vincent's Hospital, Sydney, NSW

Did not marry

NURSE O'NEILL'S LETTER.

Dear Aunt Mary, When in Egypt I wrote you quite a long letter, giving you an account of all the Mosques end interesting places I had seen. I thought you would be pleased to hear from a Western Australian nurse (and also to thank you for the interest you took in trying to get me out on active service). I do not know if you ever received my letter, but I think if you had done so, you would have answered it. If you only knew what a pleasure it is to get letters (or even a paper) in the country you would send me one occasionally.

Now, I will try and describe and give you my impression of Salonica. The truth of the old adage, that distance lends enchantment to the eye came home to me with greater force than ever when landing in the streets of the town in the near east. From the deck of our transport (the Osmanieh which brought us over from Alexandria last August, and which since has met the fate of many other boats) the view seemed one huge mixture of East and Ancient Greece. There on our far left, is Mt. Olympus, the home of everything god-like in ancient times, while over the bow could be seen the greatest medley of ancient and modern architecture I think it has ever been my luck to view, and the impression made can never be forgotten. The high hills of Hortiach with Mt. Kotos, the highest point, make a good back ground to the picture of the city, whose levels on the land side are to the present day demarked by the old ram-parts, or walls with their battlements and strong towers adding to their one time military strength and importance.

The old Thessalonicans must have been proud of these fortifications and secure as they were from attack on their sea board, these walls must have given a snug feeling of security which was strange to the people of those wild and warlike times, when might was right and the sword was used oftener than the plough, i.e. 315 B.C. to 395 A.D.

The Byzantines in 395 A.D. when they became rulers of Salonica must have thought no end of their military powers in becoming masters of such an old time impregnable city. Cassander in building these walls (in or about 315 B.C.) thought the city, which bore his wife's name (Thes-salonica) would ever remain the most cherished of his possessions, but alas the wild Byzantines were able to tear from him his fair city.

But to return to the mental picture as seen from the transport. Immediately below the city walls high ground, is the Turkish or native quarters, or as it is sometimes called the old city. Here it is that close contact, detracts from the splendor of the distant view, for later, I discovered it was not all shining homes, tall minarets and handsome ecclesiastical buildings, but, that these were only outstanding items in a most sordid surrounding; however, the modern and present day commercial and suburban part of the city stretching along the whole sea front makes up in part for the filth of the interior, for on a whole it is, or, was before the fire (August 1917) a city not altogether ignorant of town planning, laws of sanitation and modern architecture. It is certainly not an Arcadian, nor is it a city of delights to the eye, or for that matter, the nose either, for in spite of all its pretences toward civilisation of Western Europe the smell Oriental cannot be eliminated for, is its population not for the most part Oriental too.

The outstanding buildings as seen from the transport are mostly Mosques or Greek orthodox churches, all mixed up with ware-houses, dwelling houses, and hovels, all of them showing their splendid or mean architecture of ancient or modern design, as the case may be. The present day Greek churches St. George's (circular building) 350 A.D. , (where now they are searching and excavating for the Emperor's palace which has been buried) Our Lady's (Basilica) 425 A.D. St. Sophia (Greek Cross)495 A.D. St. Demetius (Basilica) 580 A.D.(Now in complete ruins from the fire) are the first sign of Salonica's conversion to Christianity, while of a later date is the Church of the twelve Apostles, 700 A.D.Going ashore by tender, seemed to us like a voyage on a broom stick into unknown regions, and on landing on the English quay, the bustle of military and naval activity on the docks, reminded us that it was neither a supernatural, nor yet Cook's-tour we were on. The quay side seemed to throb with all nationalities under the sun, and the uniforms, although mostly of the drab active service kind were various enough to remind one of the rainbow and its beautiful display of colouring and tints. From the docks, we were wafted by motor ambulance to the small part of Mother Earth, which was to be the scene of our labours : of these labours am not permitted to write fully. Very little surgical work at present, principally dysentery and malaria (benign and malignant tertian) with complications such as black water fever, etc. I might mention malaria is a perfect scourge here, several of our sisters have been sent home through it.

After the first rush of settling down one had time to look around and take an interest in the advantages and disadvantages under which the citizens of Salonica live. It is a port situated in a huge natural haven. The geographical position for commercial necessity advantageous. There is little wonder therefore that history is full of references to it, as having been the scene of both much bloodshed and medieval cruelty. The conflict of religious factions gave rise to this. The eve of the conqueror was also that of the merchant, for the covetous eye was ever attracted towards Salonica by more the commercial interest of the soldier than by a lust formilitary or territorial conquest.

The ancient Athenians found in Salonicaa wealthy seaport to drain the plains and hills of the whole of Macedonia of its produce right from its natural barrier, the Balashiza Mountains in the north, with its Rupels Pass to drain even further north, if advantageous commercially to open up and barter with these less civilised mountaineers. Constantinople, in the north not only objected to this, but did not rest until Macedonia become part of its empire. Because of this Mohammedan invasion, the ecclesiastical buildings are peculiar in having both Christian and Moham-medan architectural symbols, viz., the dome surmounted by cross, and the minareti by crescent. It is strange to stand within these buildings and think that, these same walls have echoed with both the prayers and religious observance of Christian and Pagan.

Like the Coptic churches of Egypt, all these churches of Salonica were wholly or partly altered by the uncivilised and fanatical Mohammedans, and the church or chapel with its profusion of Christian symbols is not to their mind a fit place of worship, nor is it worthy of the name of mosque until the necessary minaret has raised its crescent to the sun at the day break of its new consecration. The interiors of these churches were also completely altered, all the beautiful mosaic covered and plastered over.

The present day population of this cosmopolitan city is of course for the most part the descendants of the Spanish Jews who fled from Spain in the intolerant days of the inquisition. These refugees were peace loving and industrious and soon formed themselves into a prosperous community, as it was possible to do in those days by an on war loving people. They were ravaged time and again by their over-rulers, but financially they always recovered, and though, like all other people, they have their poor still they may be called prosperous. The pre-war time of civil population of Salonica, Greeks, Turks, Albanians, Ionians and Jews, remnants of previous military occupations must now be added to the cosmopolitan armies of the Allies, British, French, Italians, Serbians, and in smaller numbers Japanese sailors from the Far East, along with our Indian troops, Maltese, Arabic labour corps, also colonial troops of France from North and West Africa and Senegal.

The physiognomies of this hotch potch of nations would take too long to study minutely, but even in passing in the streets one gets used to noting merely the chief facial characteristics and differences. There are to be seen at the self-same moment in the thronging streets, the fine faces and carriage of our soldiers and sailors, the expressive face of the Italian and French,the handsome but war weary presence of the unconquerable Serb, the fine aquiline features, slight but strong physique of the Athenian and Ionian, the descendants of those brave Spartan mothers, indolent Turk or nomad relic of a past glory,along with all there can be seen the pro-digals of all lands under the sun, out-numbered, of course, by the Jews.

The eye certainly has an impression vivid in the extreme, and assisted by the hearing of the different languages heard from this cosmopolitan stream the mental attention is quickened, but the babel leaves retention only half complete.

The Serbian military band playing in the White Tower attracts our attention one day, and there, sipping tea, one had a quasi impression both of the eye and the ear, that impression would take too long to convey in writing, but perhaps some day it will make for me a pleasant verbal story.

The White Tower is a building of anti-quity, which ranks in importance with (ifit does not really outclass) the churchesand mosques alreadymentioned.

There is some doubt by whom it was built. At one time it was called St.Mark's Tower, so it is more than likely it was built by the Venetians, as St. Mark was their patron saint. lt is a round bastile which has in the past done duty as both fort and prison. Unlike the Tower of London, it stands by itself, naked of subsidiary or auxiliary buildings added from time to time, and this, proves that its designer foresaw, its limits of use and made it one solid round, thick-walled, substantial building. Built to with stand centuries of the works of the worm of time, and of the ever destructive military ordeals which it has witnessed and in which it has taken its important part. lts top most ramparts, with flat roof, is reached by means of a spiral stair (more like a spiral pathway) of shallow, broad steps, turning its way between the outer and inner cylinder of solid masonry, the staples to which prisoners were chained can still be seen on the inner walls and the clink, clink of the prisoners, of Chilon is remembered as one gazes on this relic of barbarity.

Blood has flown on the floor of this old edifice, and if her walls could speak, many tales of justice done, and also justice misplaced and contorted to suit the foul purposes of the oppressor, could they tell. Here the populace of ancient Salonica used to take grim delight or otherwise in the witnessing of the last drastic step of justice or tyranny. The whiteness and cleanliness (thanks to the British Tar, who now uses it as a post of observation station) of the tower is so vivid that a long stretch of imagination is required to bring back over the gulf of time and civilisation the imagery of its sordid past. Altogether, contrast is Salonica's outstanding attraction, the old and the new, in humanity and its works, seem to jostle everywhere. Electric trolley, tram, light motor car, heavy motor lorry, swish past and rattle along the old street flags, still trod by oxen waggons, pack mules, donkeys, and other overladen beasts of burden in the form of the Oriental human who is not yet menially strong enough to realise his birthright of freedom from excess of physical endeavour, but unlike Kipling's meeting place, there must be not only the ten commandments, but several other tens, if all religious factions are to be satisfied.

I must mention the Arch of Triumph,commonly known as Alexandria's Arch, but really built by Galerius in 302 A.D.On its walls the carvings of the figures of conqueror and vanquished warriors maybe seen, also all kinds of animals, the elephant, camel, etc. As you gaze on it, one can imagine the scene so vividly; can see the triumphal march of the conqueror, with his prisoners, hands fastened behind their backs. Also is ecrved the victor offering up prayers of thanksgiving. Am enclosing you a photo, which will give you some idea of it.

I wish you could see our snow-clad mountains (Olympus is magnificent) and hills, our grassy plains already covered with wild snowdrops, primroses, wild violets,tulips, etc. They tell me at the end of this month (April) that it is simply gorgeous with miles of crimson poppies and other wild flowers. There is also a good lot of land under cultivation, even half way up some of the hills, so you can see how beautifully green everything is looking. Here and there are flocks of sheep (white and black) with their shepherds and their dogs. The peasant women in their quaint dress working in the fields make a pretty picture.

Our sunsets are divine, the tinting of orange, red, blue and heliotrope, is simply perfect, then the beautiful soft afterglow, the hills in the distance (as a background) of the palest shade of blue. The reflection of all these on the water is marvellous. I never get tired of gazing at the hills and
water.

We have many nice outings, picnics to the hills and the beach (on our time off duty). We have been trying to arrange a picnic to Mt. Hotos, had the donkeys hired, but the weather turned nasty. In fact, we had a very cold snap at Easter time, snowing for some days. On Good Friday, going to church with some of the Sisters, the snow was so beautifully deceiving that many a good fall we had, at other times finding ourselves up to our knees in it. I enclose a snap of snowballing some of the medical officers. These officers, one and all, are exceedingly nice to us, and are getting quite used to our Australian twang. What!

I do hope this long letter will not tire you. I really should not have written such a long production, as I know what a busy personage you are, and how tired you must be. I trust you are not working too hard.

How is the good old Silver Chain progressing? It is a grand charity, and deserving great help, which I am sure it is getting.

I would dearly love a "Western Mail" occasionally, and if you are not too busy and tired, a letter would be a godsend.

With kindest regards and every good wish, Sincerely yours.

EMILY G. O'NEILL.

Western Mail Friday 10 January 1919 page 36

NURSE O'NEILL'S LETTER.

Dear Aunt Mary, When in Egypt I wrote you quite a long letter, giving you an account of all the Mosques end interesting places I had seen. I thought you would be pleased to hear from a Western Australian nurse (and also to thank you for the interest you took in trying to get me out on active service). I do not know if you ever received my letter, but I think if you had done so, you would have answered it. If you only knew what a pleasure it is to get letters (or even a paper) in the country you would send me one occasionally.

Now, I will try and describe and give you my impression of Salonica. The truth of the old adage, that distance lends enchantment to the eye came home to me with greater force than ever when landing in the streets of the town in the near east. From the deck of our transport (the Osmanieh which brought us over from Alexandria last August, and which since has met the fate of many other boats) the view seemed one huge mixture of East and Ancient Greece. There on our far left, is Mt. Olympus, the home of everything god-like in ancient times, while over the bow could be seen the greatest medley of ancient and modern architecture I think it has ever been my luck to view, and the impression made can never be forgotten. The high hills of Hortiach with Mt. Kotos, the highest point, make a good back ground to the picture of the city, whose levels on the land side are to the present day demarked by the old ram-parts, or walls with their battlements and strong towers adding to their one time military strength and importance.

The old Thessalonicans must have been proud of these fortifications and secure as they were from attack on their sea board, these walls must have given a snug feeling of security which was strange to the people of those wild and warlike times, when might was right and the sword was used oftener than the plough, i.e. 315 B.C. to 395 A.D.

The Byzantines in 395 A.D. when they became rulers of Salonica must have thought no end of their military powers in becoming masters of such an old time impregnable city. Cassander in building these walls (in or about 315 B.C.) thought the city, which bore his wife's name (Thes-salonica) would ever remain the most cherished of his possessions, but alas the wild Byzantines were able to tear from him his fair city.

But to return to the mental picture as seen from the transport. Immediately below the city walls high ground, is the Turkish or native quarters, or as it is sometimes called the old city. Here it is that close contact, detracts from the splendor of the distant view, for later, I discovered it was not all shining homes, tall minarets and handsome ecclesiastical buildings, but, that these were only outstanding items in a most sordid surrounding; however, the modern and present day commercial and suburban part of the city stretching along the whole sea front makes up in part for the filth of the interior, for on a whole it is, or, was before the fire (August 1917) a city not altogether ignorant of town planning, laws of sanitation and modern architecture. It is certainly not an Arcadian, nor is it a city of delights to the eye, or for that matter, the nose either, for in spite of all its pretences toward civilisation of Western Europe the smell Oriental cannot be eliminated for, is its population not for the most part Oriental too.

The outstanding buildings as seen from the transport are mostly Mosques or Greek orthodox churches, all mixed up with ware-houses, dwelling houses, and hovels, all of them showing their splendid or mean architecture of ancient or modern design, as the case may be. The present day Greek churches St. George's (circular building) 350 A.D. , (where now they are searching and excavating for the Emperor's palace which has been buried) Our Lady's (Basilica) 425 A.D. St. Sophia (Greek Cross)495 A.D. St. Demetius (Basilica) 580 A.D.(Now in complete ruins from the fire) are the first sign of Salonica's conversion to Christianity, while of a later date is the Church of the twelve Apostles, 700 A.D.Going ashore by tender, seemed to us like a voyage on a broom stick into unknown regions, and on landing on the English quay, the bustle of military and naval activity on the docks, reminded us that it was neither a supernatural, nor yet Cook's-tour we were on. The quay side seemed to throb with all nationalities under the sun, and the uniforms, although mostly of the drab active service kind were various enough to remind one of the rainbow and its beautiful display of colouring and tints. From the docks, we were wafted by motor ambulance to the small part of Mother Earth, which was to be the scene of our labours : of these labours am not permitted to write fully. Very little surgical work at present, principally dysentery and malaria (benign and malignant tertian) with complications such as black water fever, etc. I might mention malaria is a perfect scourge here, several of our sisters have been sent home through it.

After the first rush of settling down one had time to look around and take an interest in the advantages and disadvantages under which the citizens of Salonica live. It is a port situated in a huge natural haven. The geographical position for commercial necessity advantageous. There is little wonder therefore that history is full of references to it, as having been the scene of both much bloodshed and medieval cruelty. The conflict of religious factions gave rise to this. The eve of the conqueror was also that of the merchant, for the covetous eye was ever attracted towards Salonica by more the commercial interest of the soldier than by a lust formilitary or territorial conquest.

The ancient Athenians found in Salonicaa wealthy seaport to drain the plains and hills of the whole of Macedonia of its produce right from its natural barrier, the Balashiza Mountains in the north, with its Rupels Pass to drain even further north, if advantageous commercially to open up and barter with these less civilised mountaineers. Constantinople, in the north not only objected to this, but did not rest until Macedonia become part of its empire. Because of this Mohammedan invasion, the ecclesiastical buildings are peculiar in having both Christian and Moham-medan architectural symbols, viz., the dome surmounted by cross, and the minareti by crescent. It is strange to stand within these buildings and think that, these same walls have echoed with both the prayers and religious observance of Christian and Pagan.

Like the Coptic churches of Egypt, all these churches of Salonica were wholly or partly altered by the uncivilised and fanatical Mohammedans, and the church or chapel with its profusion of Christian symbols is not to their mind a fit place of worship, nor is it worthy of the name of mosque until the necessary minaret has raised its crescent to the sun at the day break of its new consecration. The interiors of these churches were also completely altered, all the beautiful mosaic covered and plastered over.

The present day population of this cosmopolitan city is of course for the most part the descendants of the Spanish Jews who fled from Spain in the intolerant days of the inquisition. These refugees were peace loving and industrious and soon formed themselves into a prosperous community, as it was possible to do in those days by an on war loving people. They were ravaged time and again by their over-rulers, but financially they always recovered, and though, like all other people, they have their poor still they may be called prosperous. The pre-war time of civil population of Salonica, Greeks, Turks, Albanians, Ionians and Jews, remnants of previous military occupations must now be added to the cosmopolitan armies of the Allies, British, French, Italians, Serbians, and in smaller numbers Japanese sailors from the Far East, along with our Indian troops, Maltese, Arabic labour corps, also colonial troops of France from North and West Africa and Senegal.

The physiognomies of this hotch potch of nations would take too long to study minutely, but even in passing in the streets one gets used to noting merely the chief facial characteristics and differences. There are to be seen at the self-same moment in the thronging streets, the fine faces and carriage of our soldiers and sailors, the expressive face of the Italian and French,the handsome but war weary presence of the unconquerable Serb, the fine aquiline features, slight but strong physique of the Athenian and Ionian, the descendants of those brave Spartan mothers, indolent Turk or nomad relic of a past glory,along with all there can be seen the pro-digals of all lands under the sun, out-numbered, of course, by the Jews.

The eye certainly has an impression vivid in the extreme, and assisted by the hearing of the different languages heard from this cosmopolitan stream the mental attention is quickened, but the babel leaves retention only half complete.

The Serbian military band playing in the White Tower attracts our attention one day, and there, sipping tea, one had a quasi impression both of the eye and the ear, that impression would take too long to convey in writing, but perhaps some day it will make for me a pleasant verbal story.

The White Tower is a building of anti-quity, which ranks in importance with (ifit does not really outclass) the churchesand mosques alreadymentioned.

There is some doubt by whom it was built. At one time it was called St.Mark's Tower, so it is more than likely it was built by the Venetians, as St. Mark was their patron saint. lt is a round bastile which has in the past done duty as both fort and prison. Unlike the Tower of London, it stands by itself, naked of subsidiary or auxiliary buildings added from time to time, and this, proves that its designer foresaw, its limits of use and made it one solid round, thick-walled, substantial building. Built to with stand centuries of the works of the worm of time, and of the ever destructive military ordeals which it has witnessed and in which it has taken its important part. lts top most ramparts, with flat roof, is reached by means of a spiral stair (more like a spiral pathway) of shallow, broad steps, turning its way between the outer and inner cylinder of solid masonry, the staples to which prisoners were chained can still be seen on the inner walls and the clink, clink of the prisoners, of Chilon is remembered as one gazes on this relic of barbarity.

Blood has flown on the floor of this old edifice, and if her walls could speak, many tales of justice done, and also justice misplaced and contorted to suit the foul purposes of the oppressor, could they tell. Here the populace of ancient Salonica used to take grim delight or otherwise in the witnessing of the last drastic step of justice or tyranny. The whiteness and cleanliness (thanks to the British Tar, who now uses it as a post of observation station) of the tower is so vivid that a long stretch of imagination is required to bring back over the gulf of time and civilisation the imagery of its sordid past. Altogether, contrast is Salonica's outstanding attraction, the old and the new, in humanity and its works, seem to jostle everywhere. Electric trolley, tram, light motor car, heavy motor lorry, swish past and rattle along the old street flags, still trod by oxen waggons, pack mules, donkeys, and other overladen beasts of burden in the form of the Oriental human who is not yet menially strong enough to realise his birthright of freedom from excess of physical endeavour, but unlike Kipling's meeting place, there must be not only the ten commandments, but several other tens, if all religious factions are to be satisfied.

I must mention the Arch of Triumph,commonly known as Alexandria's Arch, but really built by Galerius in 302 A.D.On its walls the carvings of the figures of conqueror and vanquished warriors maybe seen, also all kinds of animals, the elephant, camel, etc. As you gaze on it, one can imagine the scene so vividly; can see the triumphal march of the conqueror, with his prisoners, hands fastened behind their backs. Also is ecrved the victor offering up prayers of thanksgiving. Am enclosing you a photo, which will give you some idea of it.

I wish you could see our snow-clad mountains (Olympus is magnificent) and hills, our grassy plains already covered with wild snowdrops, primroses, wild violets,tulips, etc. They tell me at the end of this month (April) that it is simply gorgeous with miles of crimson poppies and other wild flowers. There is also a good lot of land under cultivation, even half way up some of the hills, so you can see how beautifully green everything is looking. Here and there are flocks of sheep (white and black) with their shepherds and their dogs. The peasant women in their quaint dress working in the fields make a pretty picture.

Our sunsets are divine, the tinting of orange, red, blue and heliotrope, is simply perfect, then the beautiful soft afterglow, the hills in the distance (as a background) of the palest shade of blue. The reflection of all these on the water is marvellous. I never get tired of gazing at the hills and
water.

We have many nice outings, picnics to the hills and the beach (on our time off duty). We have been trying to arrange a picnic to Mt. Hotos, had the donkeys hired, but the weather turned nasty. In fact, we had a very cold snap at Easter time, snowing for some days. On Good Friday, going to church with some of the Sisters, the snow was so beautifully deceiving that many a good fall we had, at other times finding ourselves up to our knees in it. I enclose a snap of snowballing some of the medical officers. These officers, one and all, are exceedingly nice to us, and are getting quite used to our Australian twang. What!

I do hope this long letter will not tire you. I really should not have written such a long production, as I know what a busy personage you are, and how tired you must be. I trust you are not working too hard.

How is the good old Silver Chain progressing? It is a grand charity, and deserving great help, which I am sure it is getting.

I would dearly love a "Western Mail" occasionally, and if you are not too busy and tired, a letter would be a godsend.

With kindest regards and every good wish, Sincerely yours.

EMILY G. O'NEILL.

Western Mail Friday 10 January 1919 page 36